Nerano: Between Sirens & Seafood
Written by: Rithi Choudhury
May 7, 2023
A hidden gem in the South of Italy there existed a picturesque small town, by the name of Nerano. Nestled in the heart of the Sorrentine Peninsula, between the rugged cliffs and the azure waters of the Tyrrhenian sea, the town is renowned for its breathtaking scenery, stunning beach Marina del Cantone, and abundant lemon groves that add a sweet scent to the air. Lemons bigger than your hands, the lemons in Nerano are a source of inspiration for the locals, who use them to make the famous limoncello liqueur, the signature drink of the town. The locals are constantly finding inventious ways to incorporate the fresh lemons into their cooking.
The culinary scene in Nerano is exactly what you are looking for… the home cooked cuisine, feeling you are nestled into the home of a traditional “nonna” (grandma). The town is famous for its traditional dish, pasta alla Nerano, which consists of fresh zucchini, cheese, and pasta. This dish is a staple in every restaurant in Nerano and is a testament to the culinary prowess of the town’s chefs. Speaking of restaurants, Nerano boasts some of the best in the region, including the Michelin-starred Quattro Passi and Taverna del Capitano, along with the very popular Lo Scoglio where you can indulge in the freshest seafood and sample some of the finest Italian wines.
Legends say the restaurant Maria Grazia located at the Nerano beach invented the Spaghetti alla Nerano in the 1950s, one of the best pasta dishes I have ever had. This spaghetti dish is also a favourite of Stanley Tucci and was featured in his show Discovering Italy. The story goes that once a prince stopped his boat in the port of marina del cantone late one night and ordered to open the nearest restaurant, Maria Grazia. The chef, perplexed at what to serve the royal, came up with the now famous Neapolitan dish with all that was available in the pantry that night.
Apart from pastas, seafood is another star element of this little fishing village. Local restaurants like Zaghera in the heart of this little town or coastline restaurants like Ristorante Pappone, Mary’s Beach Ristorante are recommended. Nerano gives you the intimate feeling where you can get lost in the quaint streets, walk around, taste the flavours and enjoy the fresh sea air. Two days are sufficient to relax at the beach sipping limoncello and feast on the local cuisine. If you are fascinated by things of the past, there is a small parish church, Gesù Salvatore, located in the square or Piazza di Nerano. This church is nothing extraordinary in terms of architecture but the only interesting element is its history dating back to the 15th century. I must however add that the bell tower of this church serves as an surrounding alarm, as it rings every thirty minutes.
A great place to be if you want tranquillity in your stay and still be able to visit the tourist hotspots like Capri, by renting a private boat. You can also explore other famous sites like Positano and the iconic Amalfi coast, with their pastel-coloured buildings, charming streets, and boutiques selling local handicrafts. A lesser known spot is Baia di Leranto, a mesmerising bay which is famous for its legend of Ulysses and the Sirens. A day of guided tours on canoes into natural reserves where no boat can reach, is a highly recommended activity. After all, even Ulysses was lured by the Sirens’ call here.
Hotel options are limited in this town, but it gives the perfect opportunity to allow FNC Agency to source out a fitting villa or home overlooking the panoramic merging of the hills and the bright blue Tyrrhenian sea. For history buffs, the ancient city of Pompeii is a short drive away. This archaeological site provides a glimpse into the ancient Roman world, with its well-preserved ruins and artifacts.
The little town of Nerano offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and gastronomic delights, with its lemon trees, seafood, Michelin-starred restaurants, and proximity to nearby attractions, it is a destination that should not be missed.